Frequently Asked Questions

Not well with standard spray foam, which needs an open cavity to expand into. For closed walls, the usual options are dense-pack cellulose blown through small holes, or injection foams made for that purpose. Spray foam fits walls that are open to the studs during a remodel, an addition or a repair.

It should not when it is installed and documented properly. Some buyers and inspectors are cautious about foam on the roof deck because it hides the underside of the roof, so keep the paperwork: foam type, thickness, areas covered and the date. We give you that record at the end of the job.

Foam is often priced by the board foot, one square foot at one inch thick, so 2 inches over 500 square feet is 1,000 board feet. HomeGuide's installed ranges are $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot for open-cell and $3.00 to $5.00 for closed-cell. Your estimate lists the inches and price for each area.

Several chemical companies make two-part open-cell and closed-cell foam systems. We name the product on the quote and can share its technical data sheet, which lists the R-value per inch and the required barriers.

Prosper adopted the 2021 International Codes for permits applied for on or after May 1, 2023. The 2021 IECC base table lists R-49 for ceilings in Climate Zone 3. Houses permitted earlier may have been built to the older R-38 Texas minimum.

If your air handlers and most of the ductwork are in the attic, it is often worth pricing. If the ducts are short or the equipment is elsewhere, sealing and topping up the attic floor usually costs less. We price both.

HomeGuide advises at least 24 hours away while spray foam cures. We ventilate during and after spraying and give you a return time when we book the job.

Often, if the HVAC equipment is in the attic or a bonus room never keeps up. In a house where ducts are inside and the attic floor is open, blown-in with good air sealing may do almost as much for less.

Yes. Closed-cell is the usual choice there because it gets more R-value into shallow joists and seals the gaps that let garage air into the room above.

It depends on the target. At HomeGuide's R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch, about 5.5 inches of open-cell reaches roughly R-20. The quote lists inches for each area.

Some shingle makers have published positions on foam under roof decks. Check your roofing paperwork, and we can talk through what we know before you decide.

In homes where the ducts and air handlers are in the attic, it usually helps a lot, because the ducts stop running through extreme heat. The quote explains what to expect for your layout.

Not always. If it is clean and dry it can stay. If it is contaminated or in the way of sealing leaks, it may need to come out.

Yes, the residential code allows unvented attics when they meet specific conditions for insulation and air barriers. We write the spec to meet them.

Most single-family attics take one to two days of spraying, plus curing time before you move back in.

Usually because its kneewalls and sloped ceilings face the attic with little or no air barrier behind them, and the floor over the garage leaks. Sealing those surfaces is often the fix.

Yes, if it is dry and clean. We level it out and blow to the target depth.

Yes. Insulation does not stop air, and leaks can undo much of what the insulation does.

Most attics take a day, including the sealing.

Heat comes up through the garage ceiling and in through kneewalls and slopes that face the attic. Sealing and insulating those surfaces is the usual fix.

If you use the garage as a workspace, it helps. If the garage is just for parking, the ceiling and shared walls matter more.

Yes. We schedule the work so animals are out during spraying and curing.

In living space, foam needs a thermal barrier such as half-inch drywall. We note it on the quote.

Standard spray foam needs open cavities. For closed walls, dense-pack cellulose or injection foam are the options. If walls are coming down to the studs anyway, that is the time to spray.

Under the 2021 IECC base table, Zone 3 wood-frame walls need R-20, R-13 plus R-5 continuous, or R-15 continuous.

Yes. We schedule around the build and provide product data for inspections.

Foam seals air leaks that batts cannot, which matters a lot for comfort. Batts cost less. We can price both.

Look for ceiling stains, a musty smell or matted insulation near roof repairs. We can check.

Usually, once the rats are gone and entry points are sealed. Contaminated insulation holds odor and can draw new pests.

The material goes out through a hose, and we cover the route. Some dust is normal, and we clean up.

Only if what is there is dry and clean.